“You know, I think Santiago is my favorite city I’ve been to yet.” D says as we walk back to our house from lunch at the market one day. Our tummies are happy and full and we take turns sipping on a jugo natural, or fresh juice, just blended 3 minutes ago. An addiction that must be fueled daily.
“Hmm really? But you’ve been to Paris and you love Berlin and Prague.”
“Yeah, I do. But I really see us living here. Everywhere else was missing something. But Santiago has it all.”
I contemplate this on the rest of the walk back. We’ve been here for exactly a month now. How the time has flown by! But at the same time, it’s been good and slow, and we’ve settled into a comfortable little life. It’s amazing how even a little bit of time, how lingering just a little bit longer at a place, will breed routine.
The truth is, I was never too excited about Santiago (it was D’s dream, not mine). I never even did too much research, and so I came here with absolutely zero expectations.
I didn’t hide the fact that I experienced a wave of panic upon arrival, afraid that I couldn’t last a month in the dirty, gritty city. But something changed along the way.
I’ve realized that despite the fact that we are on the other side of the world, and where we don’t speak the language, I’ve never felt out of place here. Santiago has felt like home almost immediately. And after a month here, even the foreign sounds of Spanish constantly buzzing around no longer sound foreign, (even though I still don’t understand most things. Note to self: try harder to learn Spanish in Buenos Aires).
Despite a less-than-impressed first welcome, despite the sidewalks constantly reeking of urine (human or dog, who knows?), despite the suffocating second-hand smoke situation, despite my camera being stolen on our 4th evening here, I’ve really grown to love this city over the past month.
It’s hard to pinpoint when exactly was the moment I fell in love with the city. But it wasn’t an immediate love, nor is it a love that I can adequately describe in words.
It’s the sense of belonging I feel when we stroll into the market for lunch, straight to our favorite corner stall. Getting a hug and kiss from Yuly, our friendly vendor, almost makes me feel like a local. They see us coming and always have the table set for us by the time we get there. Our table. During the course of lunch, we attempt to chat in Spanish, no doubt with a lot of blank stares on my side. Until she gives up and laughingly says “you don’t understand anything I’m saying!” Nope. Well, I understood that.
Sweet, plump Yuly…will you remember us when we return?
I love the evening strolls along Paseo Ahumada, Despite the chaos of the crowd, I feel completely at peace. We walk in content silence, and yet both of us instinctively knowing to turn into our favorite gelato shop. The only argument we have is whether to share a cup or get our own.
And Emporio Zunino, the best empanada shop in town, with only 3 items on the menu. We get our empanadas steamy hot and cannot be any happier with a $3 dinner, chowing down on the street corner. The cheese empanada with flakey crust is absolutely heavenly, but probably more calories and fat than anyone should be allowed to consume at once. I briefly feel guilty but decide I’ll gladly get fat if it means I can eat like this everyday.
Or maybe we decide we want to enjoy dinner from the comfort of home. Which in that case, we head to the local Peruvian place around the block (the same place we discovered our very first night in the city). Sometimes we get chaufa con pollo and sometimes lomo saltado, but always a torta tres leche. And after the take out containers are all empty, we wonder why we didn’t order two slices of cake.
It’s the little bits of familiarity, like wandering through Plaza de Armas and looking for the resident chubby stray, whom we affectionately call El Gordo. We see him almost daily, but I still laugh each time when I spot him, sitting like a humpbacked old man, too fat to move.
It’s the proud feeling that comes with being such regulars on the metro that I have learned the routes like the back of my hand, no longer needing to study a map. It’s the excitement of riding the metro, knowing that a new part of the city awaits when we step off. A new adventure.
Even during our “working days”, it’s the feeling of calm and at-home, like finally understanding this is how life is meant to be lived. Never feeling more carefree or happy. Both of us silently working on our laptops, against the backdrop of busy streets. Slowly watching through the open French doors as the sky transforms into gradients of gold and orange as the sun sets. And come night, falling asleep to the tune of music floating up from the restaurants downstairs.
All this and so much more. Still so much to discover about Santiago.
And I decide I am really quite alright with this life. I could very easily settle into a nice little life here.
But the world is big and there’s still a lot to see and experience. Yes, I truly loved Santiago. But I also know I will love a hundred more cities to come. And probably love even more so. Although Santiago will forever hold a special place in my heart for being my first introduction to long-term travel. And travel on we must. So we pack up our bags, leave behind the keys, and keep on moving. And look forward to be charmed by another city.
Bye beautiful, charming, delicious Santiago! Until we meet again! And maybe even for longer next time.
But for now… Buenos Aires, here we come.
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Stay tuned for a few last Santiago posts coming up, including: Santiago neighborhoods guide, and cost of living for one month in Santiago.
This post is part of the #sundaytraveler series. Check out this post 7 Free Things to do in Prague by Pack Me To (@packmeto), and don’t forget to support all the other participating blogs (links at the bottom of post)!
So glad you had such an amazing time in Santiago. Can’t wait for what’s in store in Buenos Aires!
Yay thanks for reading! It was great!! And I already have a sneaky suspicion that I’m going to love Buenos Aires a lot!
Your Santiago posts are delightful to read, and make me really want to visit myself. Look forward to the remaining posts :)
Thank you so much for reading, Upasna! It means a lot to me! I hope you do get to visit this lovely city someday :)
Great post! So one Santiago down, two more to go? (I’ve been to Santiago de Composella in Spain ánd Santiago de Cuba… but nót Santiago de Chile, it’s on the wishlist).
Esther.
Haha! I didn’t know there were other ones, but now that I know, I’d love to go! How did you like the other Santiago’s? I hope you get to complete the trifecta someday and come to the one in Chile!
Wow! So pleased you fell in love with it in the end! (Sorry about your camera though)…
I’m surprised I really loved it at the end too! And there are things I miss about it now that I’m gone. I honestly wasn’t all that shocked about the camera because I’m not that situationally aware all the time lol. So I’m trying to be better now, and guard my iPhone like a baby. :)
Chile is a place I’d love to explore. I look forward to reading your adventures in Argentina
Thanks for reading Brianna! I hope you make it down to Chile someday! And as for Buenos Aires, it’s a city I was already in love with before even visiting :)
So glad to read this post and get a much better insight into Santiago! I’ve not been there myself and it sounds wonderful from the description you’ve given! Hope you’re having a wonderful time in BA!
Thank you so much for reading Shikha! Santiago is wonderful and there are a lot of things I miss about it! The BA experience is different so far, but that’s what makes traveling exciting :)
Oh gosh, what a great post. I’ve never been to South America (one day!) but the feeling you describe of familiarity, and routine, with a hint of excitement is one I know well. I even like the random work days where you get to go cafe hopping while getting stuff done. I want that lifestyle. Sounds like you really enjoyed your time and ate well – everything sounds so yummy!
Yes, it’s the feeling of familiarity and excitement that I love :). I’m sure you’ll have the lifestyle again when you go off on another great adventure! Santiago didn’t really have cozy cafés, but Buenos Aires sure does, so I’m starting to get into the cafe working life here!
What a wonderful post, I am glad that you loved your time in Santiago! It sounds so charming and truly felt like home to you. It is difficult to leave a place like that I’m sure, but you can always go back there! I hope your table at the restaurant is there awaiting your return :)
It is difficult to leave but also exciting to go somewhere new! But there are a lot of things I miss already. I hope we do get to go back someday :). Thanks so much for reading!
Oh if only all travel left us with this feeling that you describe about your time in Santiago! So fun to read about your positive experience. I wonder if some of that came from you having no expectations once you arrived.
Yes, I think it does have to do with coming with no expectations :). Sometimes when we have ideas of how things would be, it could be a let down when it doesn’t happen like that. I expected nothing and Santiago completely surprised me. Thank you so much for reading Daidri!
Glad you enjoyed Santiago! I’m sure many have the same sensations when they arrive, but it is a really endearing city – a lot of which seems to have involved your interactions with locals. Looking forward to your BA posts!
I agree that interactions with locals make a huge difference in your experiences. And I found that the locals in Santiago were superrrr friendly! Now that I’m in BA, I don’t quite get the same feeling. Thanks for stopping by Dave!
Glad you ended up enjoying Santiago at the end. Can’t wait to read about your travels in Bueno Aires!
I really did enjoy it and miss it. Thank you so much for taking the time to read and comment Marsha! It means a lot to me! :)
Such a nice post! Great that you enjoyed your time in Santiago. And that you felt in love with the city despite the misadventures you’ve experienced there. Sorry for the camera. That’s a bummer.
Haha, it’s ok about the camera.. it was a 5 year old point-and-shoot. And I think the iPhone takes just as good pictures. I’m just guarding that with my life now :). Thanks for stopping by and the nice comment, Frank!
I actually originally wrote something like this about Ireland when I first left a thousand and one years ago… as a note on Facebook. Everyone loved it, but I never thought about putting something like this on the blog. So thanks a mil for the inspiration xx
No problem! Reading this, I can just see my love for the city. It’s funny how this was the only city I have ever wrote something like this for. Pieces like this are definitely special because they only come once in a blue moon! So if you have one, share it! :)