You guys… I didn’t want to do it. I didn’t want to become a backpacker cliche.
You know the ones… the ones who travel to Southeast Asia (specifically Chiang Mai, Thailand) to find thrills and indulge in good food, all while (and most importantly) living on the ridiculously cheap. And the ones who inevitably settle down there because, why else would you go anywhere else now?!
But I have something to confess. I LOVE Chiang Mai too!
I love it so much that I already dreading the day I have to leave. I’m already thinking of everything I’m going to miss so much, and if the same things from any other place will ever measure up. And I’ve even succumbed to wearing the stereotypical backpacker/expat outfit, with the baggy elephant pants and tank.
I’m pretty sure only tourists ever wear pants like these….
And I feel no shame!
I didn’t love Chiang Mai right away. If I had to choose one word to describe my first impression, it’d be “skeptical.” Chiang Mai is so popular on the backpacker and expat trail that foreigners are just as common as the local Thais. Our first night here, we were too tired to do much besides buy some essentials from the 7-11 downstairs and then walk across the alleyway to the nearest street stall for dinner. But even in those few short strides, we saw foreigners everywhere. Lined up around us at the check-out counter, perched on tiny stools at the street vendor stalls… I mean, geez, I kinda expected it, but it was still slightly disheartening.
I thought, oh great… we left the western world only to come be with our own people.
But it turned out, it only took one day to fall in love. Everything I’ve ever heard about Thailand rang up true: the amazing food, the rich culture, the always smiling people.
And as it turned out, even with the abundance of foreigners, Thailand is anything but familiar. Even the most mundane things are different and intriguing.
My heart always holds a special place for the first city I visit in each new area of the world, and Southeast Asia is all new to me. Chiang Mai is my first introduction to the ways of this world – to a world where the best foods are cooked streetside, where monks in saffron robes walk the streets, where tuks-tuks and scooters zoom by dangerously close, where just a few dollars get you an hour’s massage… it’s a different, more simple kind of life.
It’s kinda humbling being in a completely different environment from what you’re used to. Like learning how to function as a human all over again. It’s a new world where even the smallest, most simple things bring about a huge sense of accomplish. Yes! I crossed the street (where drivers drive on the wrong side of the road, mind you) all by myself without getting almost run over! We managed to order food like the locals do! I wrote the order down in Thai (by painstakingly copying the lettering from the menu) and they read it and brought out the right things! It’s weird, but oddly satisfying, to be so proud of yourself for the most ordinary things.
It’s been almost 2 weeks here and life has taken on a sense of comforting familiarity. We’ve been less about seeing the sites and have instead been thoroughly exploring our little neighborhood and integrating ourselves in the community. We know where to go for the best dishes to satisfy particular cravings (Thai breakfast, fried chicken, noodle soups, mango sticky rice, iced tea/coffee). We know how each place wants the order placed. We say hi to the alleyway vendors when we happen to bump into them somewhere else. We know who to ask for at our go-to massage spa. I’ve finally started trying out some Thai words (kob kun kaa), the words coming out faint and unsure as they leave my lips.
But most of all, I’ve loved slowing down. This past summer of constant movement has exhausted us and I love having somewhere to call home again (even if it’s only for a month). My clothes are hung up neatly in the wardrobe and my makeup lined up on my vanity (the rest of the apartment though… not so neat). On a shelf over the bed are some keepsakes of my favorite things from back home. It’s nice to fully unpack and make a little home for a bit.
Who knows… maybe someday we will make a real home for a while. Free free to find me and berate me for becoming a backpacker cliche if that happens. I’ll be one of the hundreds of expats in poofy elephant pants. :P
A few snapshots of my favorite moments in Chiang Mai so far:
streets of Chiang Mai (by the Warorot Market)
gilded dragon at Wat Phra Singh
all kinds of fried deliciousness at the street stall downstairs
view of the Hmong hilltribe village (known for grown opium flowers)
whitewashed masoleums at Wat Suan Dok
Northern Thai noodles with a red curry base
view of the whole of Chiang Mai from Wat Doi Suthep
Have you been to Chiang Mai? What were your impressions?
Are you ready to come fall in love with Chiang Mai too? For accommodation ideas in Chiang Mai, check out Where to Stay in Chiang Mai: Nimman or Old City by HotelsCombined, for a list of the best unique hotels and accommodation.
Man, I’m dying to go to Chiang Mai. When I was in Thailand, we didn’t have time to venture to northern Thailand — we just visited Bangkok and Phuket. I really would love to go to Chiang Mai and see the sights and eat northern Thai food, though! I’ll just have to go back ;)
Love the photo of the gilded dragon. Beautiful!
I’m loving Chiang Mai SO much!! I’m going to Bangkok next and I kinda don’t want to go, lol! I love the small town feel of Chiang Mai and I’m not ready for a big city. I hope you go back and go to Chiang Mai!
What about the sweat? You’re taking it in stride too? And, no squat toilets yet? :D
LOL! It is HOT (even though all the locals keep on saying that it’s winter time now!), but the good thing about being hot and sweaty all the time is that I don’t need to pee while I’m out, so I haven’t encountered any squatty toilets, hehe.
I guess it’s a backpacker cliche for a reason? ;)
Well, I do feel you. We were traveling around, changing places all the time last summer, so when we finally settled down for a month in Granada NI we didn’t even care that there were other tourists everywhere!
Yeah! It’s so nice to settle down somewhere. 1 month is way too short though, and I do hope to come back for a longer time next time. :D I’m totally OK with being a backpacker cliche here.
It sounds like such a cool experience! I would love to go to Asia someday, and I’ve heard lots on how wonderful Thailand is. Thanks for letting me travel vicariously through your blog at the moment! Looking forward to reading more :-)
Asia is so different from anything else I’ve experienced so far! Well, technically I have been to parts of China, so I kinda knew what to expect from this part of the world, but I was always with my family, so I didn’t have to figure out anything for myself. Thailand is WONDERFUL so far and just like what everyone says it is like. I hope you go someday too!
I enjoyed this post because Chiang Mai is on my places to go list :) The photos are great i think you captured Chiang Mai really well :) x
Thanks so much for reading and taking the time to leave a comment, Laura! I hope you go to Chiang Mai someday!! I’m sure you’ll love it too!
So happy to hear you’re having an awesome time! I absolutely loved Chiang Mai when I visited six years ago. Only got to stay for a couple of days – but still, it was my favourite part of Thailand!
Allowing yourself a decent amount of time in a destination makes SUCH a difference. After doing a few whirlwind trips over the years, I’m now definitely all for focusing on fewer places to really experience properly :)
Uh oh… I hope it’s not all downhill from here, as Chiang Mai is our 1st stop in Thailand. :P But seriously, I love Chiang Mai so much already that I kinda don’t even want to go to Bangkok anymore! But I’m sure it’ll bring a different experience.
I love slow travel SO much more than seeing a bunch of places really fast. I love the feeling of having different places to go to, and the sense of belonging. :)
I am dying to visit South East Asia in general after all the travel bloggers who have ended up there and settled down for a while. We almost moved to South Korea last year and if we had, I can imagine we would have done the same!
Yeah! It seems like that SO many bloggers and/or expats go settle down in Thailand, especially in Chiang Mai. I can see why after being here. Apart from it being just a pleasant place to live, I’m a little ashamed to say that a lot of the allure is that you can live like kings for very little. I’m sure you’d love it when you come visit! I heard good things about Seoul too. I’m hoping I can visit there someday!
That’s totally how I felt about Prague – like such a cliche! It’s both amazing and weirdly disappointing when destinations actually live up to the hype because you don’t want to be just like everyone else. Haha I’m glad you’re loving it, though!! Makes me want to visit even more. Awesome photos by the way! Definitely pinning them…
Oh god… I really do understand why everyone loves Prague. But I found it to be SO overcrowded and the locals were all SO rude too! I think it was actually the least friendly place in Europe we went to. I think Thailand is kinda a cliche but the people are really nice here and it is genuinely a nice place to be! I hope you strap on that backpack again and come to SEA!
I love the photos … and the food looks so scrumptious. Thailand seems to be a favorite especially among backpackers, need to put it on my bucket list.
Thanks Rachel! Thailand is a favorite for backpackers, and I really do see why! It’s beautiful, there’s a lot of culture, the locals are friendly, and it’s very affordable for those of us with western currency. And oh yes, the food is amazing! I hope you get to visit!
I want those pants ;)
I’m not gonna lie.. I’ve been living in them ever since I got them!
Haha, I too have see a ton about Chiang Mai from the “digital nomad” contingent, but there must really be something to this place if it is beloved by so many. I am a big beach person so initially I wasn’t sure I would ever want to go and stay there versus one of the many islands, but I look forward to learning more about what makes this place special. It must be wonderful to settle down for a month somewhere!
I think the thing about Chiang Mai is that it’s very very affordable, the Thai people are some of the friendliest, there’s a TON of nature around for adventurous activities, a lot of culture, and it’s small and relaxed. I totally can see settling down here too! I’m a beach person too, but anywhere small and close to nature will do :). I wish it was more than a month, and someday I’d like to do what you do and just be an expat somewhere for a couple of years!
Man I want to visit!!! All that food looks amazing!
The food is really good and affordable! It’s definitely a HUGE part of our day. Let me know if you guys ever plan on going. We’d love to go back too!!!
I love that you are loving it!! And it is nice to have somewhere to call home base, even if just for a month. Thailand is an amazing place – I’ve only been to Bangkok and Koh Samui, but I fell in love immediately with it there. Can’t wait to live vicariously through your adventures! ;)
It’s been soooo nice slowing down and being in one place for longer. I wish it was even longer! We’re going to Bangkok in less than a week! I’m kinda sad to leave here, but excited for another experience.