Dubai is a city of luxury and excess, skyscrapers and mind-boggling architecture. It’s basically the ultimate man-made playground.
But as we know, all cities have to start from somewhere. So is there anywhere where you can experience a Dubai before the artificial extravagance?
“Go to Old Dubai,” my Airbnb host said. “it’s the only area where you can see what Dubai used to be like.”
Old Dubai is known for its souk (or marketplaces). They used to be the epicenter of the community, but now exist more or less for tourists. Still, it sounded interested to see. And I love local markets, so I planned an afternoon of wandering through the markets and streets of Old Dubai.
I started my explorations at the famous Deira Gold Souk across the Dubai Creek. The Gold Souk is the largest marketplace to buy gold in the UAE (or maybe even in the world?).
Not a second after I stepped inside the gold market was I approached by a young man, asking me to come look at his shop. “No thanks, I’m just browsing,” I said.
“No just come in to look,” he insisted. “If you like, you buy. If not, you can go. I’m not trying to push you.”
When I kept on saying no and walk away, he followed me. I emphasized I’m really just here to look and enjoy the atmosphere, not to buy anything. He still followed.
I was still trying to figure out how to shake the guy, when he asked, “Want to see a dress made of gold?”
Sure, why not.
The gold market has over 300 stores all selling gold of all manners. Every single storefront is positively dripping with gold. Heavy statement necklaces, rolls of gold bangles, strands of dainty gold chains. I wanted to stop and admire and take photos, but he led me quickly past all of those.
We stopped in front of a storefront that has a mannequin draped in a gold dress. I took a couple of pictures.
“Let me show you the world’s biggest gold ring now,” he said, ushering me on.
Again, he led me straight past the row of shops, to the very last store at the end by the exit. There in the storefront, was a huge gold ring on display.
He went inside and got me a pamphlet. This ring, called the Star of Taiba, is the largest ring in the world and made with 58.7 kg of 21-karat gold, and mounted with an additional 5.17 kg of Swarovski stones. (Yes, that’s from the pamphlet.)
Picture snapped, he led me out of the market and down the street. “Now lets go to the spice market,” he said.
At this point, I resigned myself to the fact that he wants to play tour guide. So I followed him down the block toward the spice market. We chatted a little on the way. His name is Ali and he’s from Afghanistan and has been living in Dubai for about 10 years. He’s a bit younger than me at 27 and seemed shocked when I said I’m already 30.
“Why don’t you come with me. I’ll show you around,” he said.
“No I really don’t want to buy anything. I’m only here to explore this area.”
“I know,” Ali said. “I don’t want your money.”
“Then what do you want? I’m only here to look around, do you understand?”
“Yes, I know. I want you. Do YOU understand?”
Wait…what? Now, how does a normal person respond to something like that? So I say, “What do you mean?”
“I want you,” he reiterated. “I want to be your friend.”
Let me interject to say that I was dressed completely modestly. Frumpy, even. In a long skirt going all the way down to my ankles, and a long sleeved hoodie, as it was a bit chilly that day. And bare faced with no makeup. I know better than to dress provocatively. Which is also the reason why I had been wearing the exact same outfit for 4 days straight… because I felt like nothing else in my luggage was suitable.
At this point, we had arrived at the spice market, which sits right on the bank of the Dubai Creek. Immediately, you’re hit with the intoxicating scent of dozens of spices mingling. Along every storefront are heaps of spices, herbs, and flowers in all colors.
Ali led me straight to a shop I assume is run by his friend, Mohammed. Mohammed gave me different spices to sniff. Sharp citrusy scent of dried lemon, sweet Madagascar vanilla, pungent curry powders. When I thanked him and said I don’t cook and won’t be buying any, he smiled, shook my hand, and said nice to meet you.
Ali led me out again. “Let me take you to the creek so you can take some pictures.”
The creek is across a small street, and you can either wait for the traffic light or use the underpass. He led me through the underpass. I saw other people coming out of it, so I figured it was safe to go in. But at one point the underpass emptied of other people and it was just the two of us. He put his arm around me and before I saw anything coming –
He kissed me.
On my cheek, but I’m not sure if that’s only because I turned away at the last second. He then reached to take my hand.
“I really like you,” he said.
“I’m sorry, I don’t know you,” I stammered, pulling my hand away. Wait… why am I the one apologizing?!
“I understand, and I don’t want you to be scared of me,” he said, as we resurfaced on the street level, where (thankfully), there are tons of people around.
He backed off after that, and made no more attempts at physical contact in the presence of others. We stood by the creek and chatted for a bit longer. He said he’d like to show me around Dubai, take me to eat and watch the traditional dancing. I lied and said I’m only here for 3 days, and this is already my 2nd day.
“I’m sorry if I’m being so pushy,” he said. “If you lived here, we can take it slow. But it’s only because you’re leaving soon, so I have to be forward.”
I thanked him for showing me around, and he said to call him next time I’m back in Dubai. We shook hands, and he walked away in the direction of his shop.
And I was left kind of baffled by the encounter.
I wandered through the spice market one more time at my own pace. Now alone, I was hassled by almost every single store owner who wants me to go in to sniff their spices. One man came up and sang and danced around me while his buddies laughed playfully. I wanted to go back to the gold souk to take the pictures I didn’t get to take, but decided that I really couldn’t deal with any more of these shenanigans.
So instead, I take the ferry across the creek.
The local ferry is one of the most fun things to do! It only costs 1 dirham to get across the creek. There’s a mix of commuter locals and curious tourists alike. The ferry dropped us off on the other side right at the entrance of the textile souk.
But first, I was intent on getting a good shot of the seagulls that seem to gather around this dock.
I steeled myself for the excursion into the textile souk. Again, I was hassled by every single store owner, this time telling me to come inside to look at their pashmina and llama scarves.
The textile souk is a colorful market selling everything from beautifully embroidered cushions to Bedouin headscarves to cheap touristy elephant pants. You can also get the typical souvenir items like magnets, Burj Khalifa figurines, and Aladdin lamps.
On a whole, I think the souks are interesting but very touristy. Maybe once upon a time, these are the center of life of the town where people gathered and chatted and did business. But now, only tourists ever go there. And to compete for business (as every single shop sells the exact same things), the store owners are forced to resort to hassle to hopefully entice customers to choose their shop. I understand, I really do. But I wish the experience is still a bit more relaxed and pleasant.
I did have one good encounter. In one storefront, a tiny kitten eating cereal caught my eye. As I bent down to pet this tiny little creature, I chatted with the Pakistani store owner, who told me that the kitten used to have 4 siblings who all have died. We ended up having a nice conversation. He never pressured me to buy anything, and I walked away feeling happy.
I think, perhaps, traveling as a single female in Dubai does have its minor inconveniences (in certain parts). I didn’t see couples, groups, or single men get hassled nearly as much. It got tiresome and uncomfortable at times, though in no way threatening. I really wanted to be able to slowly browse and take pictures in peace, but I didn’t get to. I guess that’s all part of the souk experience.
But still, I think walking around old Dubai makes for an interesting afternoon. Just don’t be surprised by all the unwarranted attention if you’re a solo female. But I have to say that as a whole, Dubai feels extremely safe to wander around as a girl, even at late hours of the night. I never felt scared or unsafe anywhere.
I was going to write about the rest of my old Dubai experience, like visiting the Old Dubai Museum (which was very nicely done) and the Bastakiya (where you can see the original walls), but that’ll have to be later, as this post is already long and I’m tired.
So I’m signing off with this… have you ever experienced hassle or unwanted attention like this anywhere on your travels? Have you been to a souk and what was your experience?
interesting read! and a bit creepy too. But all the scarves and pillows are so pretty!
Yeah it was very unexpected. I’m just glad besides that one moment, there were always other people around and nothing else happened!
What a shame that you couldn’t browse around the markets in a leisurely pace. :(
I know… but I guess that’s all part of the souk experience right? If you want to stop and look, they’re going to assume you want to buy and pester you. I just wish I had gotten more pictures of all that gold in the gold souk :(
That was creepy!!! I’m glad he didn’t do anything more than that. And yes, I went to an island by myself and on the boat ride there (it was a shared boat ride), I was harassed by a couple of drunk guys who wanted to know my name (I gave them a fake one), which resort I was staying in etc. They reeked of alcohol and were invading my personal space. It was scary. It wasn’t peak season so there weren’t a lot of people, and instead of sitting outside where most people were, I sat inside by myself because I wanted to be somewhere quiet. I went and sat with families after that. :( I wasn’t even dressed for the beach yet!! Once we got to the port, I waited for them to leave before I approached the guy from the resort holding up my (real) name in a big sign wearing a shirt with the name of the resort. Unwarranted attention sucks!
Teesh || Adventures of Cupcake Girl
I know.. I”m glad there were others around and he didn’t do anything more. I was surprised that he’d be that forward!
Wow!! Your story is scary too, because you were outnumbered :(, but good thinking to wait for them to leave. Glad nothing else happened! This is why places like Dubai have special women and families seating!
Eeek! I would have been like, nope I’m outta here! lol You handled yourself so well and so politely lol. But I do love your description of Dubai… artificial extravagance. I would love to visit one day, but one thing holding me back is exactly that. More old town, less artificial extravagance I say!
I think even if you don’t like the super modern kind of cities, you can still find things to like about Dubai :). The desert safari was one of the most fun things I’ve ever done! And it’s still amazing to see what man can build and how such an extravagant city can be developed in such a short time.
I can’t believe that Ali hassled you so much, even though you made it very clear that you weren’t looking for anything. That’s so awkward and creepy too! On another note though, the markets look beautiful and colorful, and I can only imagine how wonderful the spice market smelled!
Yeah all the other store owners just leave you alone after you say you don’t want to buy anything, but he didn’t! The markets are beautiful and I wish I could take the time to browse slowly. I think they’d be so much better if there wasn’t so much hassle! But maybe you’re just supposed to take it as part of the experience haha.
That was a really interesting read, I too find it really uncomfortable when hassled to buy things, and I’m terrible at saying ‘no’. It’s sad to hear they are so touristy now, but I suppose Dubai being the way it is now means few inhabitants shop in markets anymore! Did you find anywhere else that seemed like old Dubai?
I know, I’m bad at saying no too, but you have to or else you’d end up with a ton of crap you don’t want hahaha. And I really liked the neighborhood I lived in actually. I stayed in Karama, which is the Indian neighborhood and it had a much more residential, authentic feel. It’s not all flashy like the downtown or marina area.
I would find this so difficult! I certainly would loose my calm at a certain point :D I would love to visit Dubai but this just sounds way too stressful for my liking so I’m really not sure…
Hahah don’t worry! There are tons of other parts of Dubai that’s not like this at all. Old Dubai is just a very small part of the city now. But it’s still a good experience to go there and see what the old part is like.
That is so full on. You did so well to keep your cool, I totally would have run away. It just seems so uncomfortable! So nice work with that. That little kitten that you snapped at the end is so sweet! I want to scoop her up and play with her. #wanderfulwednesday
I know!! The kitten was tinnnny. I wished I could have just put her in my pocket.
And too bad I’m too polite to just run away, haha.. sigh…
Oh gosh, what a day! So glad you remained calm and took it in your stride, and so glad you turned your head at the right time too!
It’s sad to me that even old Dubai has become touristy and that there is so much hassle.
I think, unfortunately, a lot of markets become touristy and while I don’t blame store owners for trying to get your attention, they still shouldn’t do anything extra creepy like follow you around!
You seem so calm about this! I think I would have been really stressed out, although I have experienced that kind of harassment on my travels (side eye Cambodia). Still, such an interesting part of the world!
Oooh… I was still with my ex-bf when we traveled through SEA so I just remember the normal amount of hassling that can be expected at markets. Dubai was still a great experience though, and I don’t have any bad memories of it!
What an incredible story! I really didn’t know which way it was going to go. I’m kind of left feeling it’s a shame he didn’t have enough respect for you not to just kiss you uninvited like that, and a bit annoyed that solo travelling females inevitably end up putting up with stuff like this. But also intrigue as to what he really wanted or thought was going to happen?! I agree – you handled it so well! I really love your photos in this post – the souks may be touristy (interesting locals aren’t so interested in them!), but it’s still really nice to see this side of Dubai and not just the glitzy side. The seagulls are a great capture too. I don’t think I was hassled when I visited about 7 years ago but I was with a friend, which maybe made a difference. Sorry for the long comment – this post really got me thinking! ?
Oh don’t apologize… I love long thoughtful comments! :D
I’m guessing that he thought that if he was successful, he’d have a 1-2 day fling with a foreigner lol. I do have to say that even though it was uncomfortable, I never felt scared because I knew that in this country, nothing would happen in broad daylight with people around. Oh how cool that you went 7 years ago!! I bet Dubai has changed so much since then!
I wouldn’t know what to do if that happened to me – I would have probably just tried to find a moment when he wasn’t watching and run away! I think you handled it on. Dubai really seems like a fascinating place. I’d like to visit the souks myself… but hopefully without the hassling!
Hehe just think that a healthy amount of hassling is part of the souk experience… but hopefully, nothing creepy or too much unwanted attention!
What an uncomfortable experience for you, bless you hun, I’m so glad you were able to walk away from it all and the kitten gave you a better encounter :) To answer your question, yes I have experienced unwanted attention when travelling, both as a solo female traveller and actually when I was with my husband as well – yes he has witnessed looks, sly photographs and comments and found it very difficult to remain respectful in countries that don’t see anything wrong with what they are doing to women; married or not! So, please know that it isn’t just because you were a solo female traveller, I hate to have to say these words because I a fiercely independant and believe we are all equal, but it’s because you are a female. end of. full stop. Please know that it would be nothing you did that warranted this story and I wanted to let you know that things have happened to me even though my husband has been by my side! #feetdotravel
Wow! That’s terrible that things have happened to you even with your husband there! And I’m not surprised if people are sneakily taking pictures of you guys. I know that it’s nothing I did because I was dressed completely modestly with no makeup at all. But maybe I was too nice back, which encouraged him haha. I have heard that sometimes if you smile or are really nice, men will take it as a sign of encouragement!
There is actually an interesting blog by Hitchy Travel Stories in our FeetDoTravel blog link up last Friday entitled “why Indian men are creepy (by and Indian man)” which offers a good perspective. I thought of you when I read it x
Sorry to hear about your bad experience. This has happened to me as well, several times unfortunately – I figure it out that I’m just not supposed to be so polite (i.e. communicative with them). Don’t let that experiance discourage you from further solo traveling!
I know! My problem is that I’m just tooooo nice and polite all the time, which they probably take it as encouragement. And nope, not discouraged at all about solo traveling! I think I feel braver even. :)
What an incredible story! Very interesting pictures from this intriguing city
Thanks for coming by! Dubai is an very interesting city and I have nothing but good memories overall!
Never heared about old dubai, looks nice by the pics :)
Hope your bad experience will not make you paranoid about solo travel. It also happens to some people in India, where I’m right now. The thing is that you have to get passed it, or that can turn your journey into bad memories.
Cheers !
Nope, not at all! I’m still looking forward to more solo travel :). I wouldn’t say this is a bad experience… maybe just uncomfortable. Because I never felt scared since i knew nothing would happen in broad daylight with people around. I still have nothing but great memories of Dubai!
Wow you had an interesting day! I travelled a lot on my own in my 20’s and the place I was hassled the most was in Lucerne Switzerland when this one guy followed me for ages. I eventually walked up to a couple of American tourists and asked if I would walk with them so I could get rid of him. It worked. Looking forward to all your posts on Dubai as considering stopping off for a few days in July on the way to Oz (I can’t do the 23 hour flight thing from the UK so planning a few stop offs lol!) #feetdotravel
Wow! That’s creepy! I’m glad you thought of a good way to solve that problem… I’ll remember to use that too if I ever find myself in a really uncomfortable/scary situation! Yes you should stop for a few days!! I have so many half written posts on Dubai, but don’t worry, I’ll make it a priority to polish them up!
Oh my goodness Anna, you sure know how to tell a good story and leave us all hooked – for a second there, I thought you were about to tell us that this was the start of some passionate holiday romance!! Glad you were safe and he didn’t try to push things any further than that. I didn’t make it to the souks in Dubai but I know that in Marrakech, I definitely felt like I would have got a lot more pestered if I hadn’t been with Pumpkin and a few of my female friends who have travelled solo in parts of Asia and the Middle East have had similar issues. Look at all that gold -so you’re telling me you DIDN’T buy that ring??! ;-)
Hahahah NO WAY!! No holiday flings for me :P. Oh I bet Marrakech was crazy! I hear a lot about the hassle there too, and I can imagine how it’d be worse for a solo female. I would still love to go someday though, but yes I would want to have a travel partner!
Thats pretty scary, and does put you off going to places like this. Being hassled when travel is one of our pet hates. Glad you were ok. #feetdotravel
Yeah I think in these countries, nothing more would happen in broad daylight with people around. So it may be uncomfortable, but not dangerous. I don’t like being hassled either because I really just want to browse slowly and in peace!
I hate when the people from the stalls start harassing you, in certain countries they just don’t take a no for an answer. In Thailand a man with a scooter chased us for like 10-15 minutes although we made it clear we are not interested in taking a ride with his scooter. (3 on a scooter in Thailand???nooo freakin way). Congrats for keeping your calm during that day.
Haha 3 on a scooter! Seriously…. how did he think he was going to manage it?! And that’s scary too because he had the advantage of being a scooter!
Fascinating experience and thanks for being so open and honest about your time at the souk! This is one of the reasons why certain places don’t appeal as much to me as travel destinations – I am quite happy walking around browsing but dealing with hassle like that can put a dampener on a trip. You dealt with it very well and still managed to get some great photos which isn’t easy to do when you feel you are being pressured to buy! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for reading Lexx! I know.. I really just wished I could have slowly browsed in peace, but you just can’t with all the hassle. But I guess that’s also part of the market experience haha. Though I really do wonder if they’d get more business if they just let people browse on their own!
Thanks for your honest post, interesting read, as I’ve been to the souks. Hassle is always a nightmare, we got it quite a lot in Havana in Cuba, but nothing like you experienced, well done for dealing with that guy calmly. Great pics too brought back some memories of getting lost!
Oh I heard it’s bad in Havana too, with a lot of it being horrible scams. Glad nothing worse happened to you guys except for some hassle!
I wasn’t even alone but still I did not get a moment of peace just walking through ONE souk in Dubai. At that time I was really glad I wasn’t alone (I had intended to visit on my own but the others decided to join me). The experience put me off and we decided we’re done with any more souks for the day. Glad for your honesty in narrating this! You remained so calm all the way, amazing!
Oh yes, it really is like no single moment of peace. I really did want to go back and take pictures in the gold souk, but I really couldn’t deal with it anymore. I wonder if ANYONE has a really positive experience in the souks with all that hassle!
I’m not sure, all I know is I saw blogposts saying it’s absolutely safe as a solo female traveller even at the souks. Well I guess that didn’t include being safe from sales harrassment lololll
That is scary, I hate the feeling when a guy is too forward like that. I had a similar experience in Slovenia where the guy said he “really liked me” and ended up buying me a tiny crystal from the cave we were hiking. I didn’t feel threatened but it was awkward. I love the spice market and the gold dress was intriguing- maybe in another lifetime ;) Awesome post!
Oh gosh!! That is horrible! And yes, even though not life threatening, still so uncomfortable. Do you still have the crystal?! LOL
I’m sure it is in a bag somewhere. I had to keep it since it was a weird memory and a piece of Slovenia to bring home haha!
OMG I fell in love with this Eastern charm! Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks Viktoria :) The souks are a very unique experience!
Hmm…. really interesting story! The only similar experience I had was in the markets in Istanbul, and then I was with a big group of girls. The blonde ones got a lot of catcalls, but I think even though we were quite noticeable we felt fine all sticking together. I love those seagull shots!
Oh yes, I was briefly in the Istanbul markets too. But I was still with D at the time, so I don’t remember too much hassle. Ugh catcalls are horrible! Hehe thanks, I took so many seagull pictures… need to figure out how to shoot on the shutter speed setting, haha.
Erk tell me about it. Me and manual mode are just not friends at the moment…
That is scary and creepy. Glad to know you got out okay. The gold necklaces look like they are super heavy and unwearable. The local ferry seems like a great way to move around. The seagull photographs are lovely! Thanks for sharing.
Hahah I think those gold necklaces are mainly for display? I mean, who’s really going to buy such a huge heavy one! There are a lot of other pretty more wearable necklaces that I didn’t get to take photos of though.
Wow, reading this made me so uncomfortable for you! I’m glad it didn’t escalate any more than it did and you were able to get yourself out of the situation. I was creeped on a bit on this latest trip in South Korea. I’ll probably write about it in the future, but like you my immediate reaction was to feel apologetic. But no, I did nothing wrong and neither did you. Ugh all around.
Oh I want to hear about your recent experience! I’m sorry something similar happened to you :( And seriously… why is it that our reaction is to apologize for not wanting to kiss them?!