Wow, it’s been a while since I’ve done a food post, huh. Which is really weird considering that our travels are so food-centric. Looking back through my archives, I’ve only written three food posts the entire time we’ve been in Asia. Three! And we’re getting into our seventh month in Asia now!
We’ve definitely been eating (and even cooking!) a lot of local foods, so let this be a warning that there may be a barrage of backlogged food-related posts coming up in the next couple of months, but I’ll do my best to intersperse them with current updates!
That said, let’s kick off on a high note – with my absolute favorite thus far: food from Northern Vietnam.
I’m not sure when I fell in love with Vietnam cuisine. The first time I had pho, I thought it was truly unspectacular. A few more tries later, after I learned to dress it up with lime, fresh herbs, and sauces, I was hooked! There was a pho restaurant very close to D’s place, and it became our default go-to place. We ate there at least a couple of times a week.
I proudly claimed Vietnamese cuisine as one of my favorites. But oh how little I actually knew about it!
In Vietnam, I discovered a whole new world of food that goes beyond just pho. I also learned that the food varies greatly from one region to another. We only visited the north (Hanoi) and the south (Saigon), but I feel like that between the two, we got a pretty good cross section of the country’s cuisine. And of the two regions, I definitely preferred the northern cuisine, while D preferred Saigon’s (but that will be a separate post!).
Here is what we ate, along with cost and my suggestions of where to get it (if I have one I’d recommend). And just for fun, let’s do this in a countdown style, so read through all the way to the bottom to see which dish won the top spot!
*Note: all of these foods were eaten in the Old Quarter, Hanoi. The Old Quarter is absolutely a foodie’s heaven!
**Second note: If this article was useful to you, download this article on GPSMyCity here, for a GPS-guided map that you can use offline.
No. 10: False dog dish (bun gia cay)
To this day, I’m still not quite sure what this is exactly. Everyone around us seemed to be getting this, so we got it as well and prayed that it really is false dog. It turned out to be pork, thank goodness! After poking around google for a bit, I understand that this dish is named so because it is prepared in the same manner as dog…. Whaaa? Seeing how I’ve never eaten dog, I wouldn’t know. But the meat was tender and the soup was very herby and salty, so it was all good.
Even though this took my last place, it doesn’t mean I didn’t like it! Honestly I liked EVERYTHING we had in Vietnam.
No. 9: Crab noodle soup (bun rieu)
Bun rieu is a northern crab and tomato noodle soup made with thin round rice noodles (instead of wide & flat like pho). There are no real crab meat pieces in there, but rather small clusters of crab egg. The soup has a light, tangy tomato flavor with a hint of the sea. A bowl costs just under US $2 in a restaurant, but out on the street? A mere 70 cents.
No. 8: Stir fried noodles (pho xao)
This is like Vietnam’s version of chow mien, using pho noodles! The rice noodles are wok fried with greens and meat (most likely, beef). This was interesting because I’ve never seen pho noodles cooked in this way before, but why not?! Everyone loves fried noodles! This is a good alternative for if you get bored with noodle soup (though I don’t see how that’s possible).
No. 7: Vermicelli & tofu with shrimp paste (bun dau mam tom)
This was one of the stranger things we’ve tried, but it pleasantly surprised us! This dish consists of fried tofu, fishcakes, pork, and tightly compressed vermicelli noodle “patties” cut into cubes. These are then eaten dipped into a shrimp paste and accompanied with fresh herbs (as everything in Hanoi is). Yum! But beware, the shrimp paste is super pungent so only a tiny dab will do!
Where to eat: There is a restaurant at the corner of main street Nguyễn Hữu Huân and Cau Go, only open during the morning and early afternoon hours. In the evening, the place changes to a seafood restaurant!
We even tried a street version of this! We saw a tiny lady making this on the sidewalk and just had to stop by and try, even though the sanitary conditions looked suspicious. Eating on tiny stools on the sidewalk is the ultimate Vietnamese dining experience, so don’t be afraid to try it!
No. 6: Spring rolls (bun nem)
Now who doesn’t love spring rolls?! Spring rolls in Hanoi are made with thin rice paper wrapping, which crisps up really flakey and crunchy. You can find vendors selling them almost anywhere on the streets. A popular specialty is the crab rolls. Try it if you see it!
No. 5: Steamed pork wraps (banh cuon)
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- making banh cuon
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- a street vendor with her banh cuon restaurant
Banh cuon is made with a pork and mushroom filling wrapped in freshly steamed rice paper, then topped with crunchy fried shallots. Fish sauce, chilis, and fresh herbs are served alongside. Eat it all in one bite for maximum deliciousness! Often, cinnamon pork will be offered as an accompaniment too. You won’t miss banh cuon vendors! They’re the ones sitting next to a big steamer with buckets of rice flour mix.
Where to eat: The most popular one is at Ban Cuon Gia Truyen (Tripadvisor page here), located at 14 Pho Hang Ga. One order costs 45,000 VND or just over US $2. However, you can find banh cuon vendors everywhere and they are all just as good.
No. 4: Vietnamese sandwich (banh mi)
I think the Vietnamese sandwich is one of the most ingenious France-meets-Asia creations ever! A fluffy baguette is stuffed with pate, cold cuts, cucumber, and pickled carrots & daikon. In Hanoi, this sandwich will be finished off with hot sauce and mayo drizzled on top. At 20,000 VND, or less than US $1, this was one of my favorite meals on the quick.
Where to find: Banh mi carts can be found absolutely everywhere in Old Quarter.
No. 3: Sticky rice (xoi xeo)
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- need to get used to eating on tiny stools! (at Xoi Yen)
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- pate over sticky rice: my favorite!
The concept is simple: sticky rice with various toppings. But the sticky rice doesn’t just come plain. A very popular option is sticky rice with a layer of mung bean paste and lard. It’s clearly a favorite for the Hanoi locals. We tried it once, and sadly, we didn’t like the paste too much, but we do LOVE just the plain sticky rice! Our favorite toppings are pate and boiled chicken. This was one of our go-to breakfasts!
Where to find: The absolute best place to go is Xoi Yen, an institution in Hanoi. Located at the corner of main street Nguyễn Hữu Huân & Hàng Mam. A bowl of sticky rice is under US $1, and various meat toppings run from 35 cents to a dollar.
No. 2: Chicken noodle soup (pho ga)
No matter how many new and interesting Vietnamese dishes I try, I will always love pho! Back at home, the pho in Vietnamese restaurants are served with bean sprouts and herbs on the side, and also bottles of sriracha and Hoisin sauce. But in the north, a bowl of pho comes unadorned, with only white vinegar, lime, pickled garlic, and chilis to adjust the taste to your liking. Chicken pho also seems to be more popular in the north, and I loved the clean flavor. Pho will always make a great meal!
Where to eat: at the corner of Hang Bo and Hang Ga are two pho stalls across the street from each other. Both are delicious and always crowded. One opens in the morning (costs 30,000 VND, or US $1.50) and one opens in the evening (costs 45,000 VND, or US $2).
No. 1: Grilled pork & vermicelli (bun cha)
This is my FAVORITE! Bun cha just means “grilled pork”, but as you can see, you get so much more! First, you get two different kinds of pork: strips of meat and minced pork patties. These are soaked in a light fish sauce soup. Then, I like to dress up the soup by dumping in a lot of red chilis and minced garlic. You also get a plate of vermicelli noodles and a mountain of fresh herbs. Everything is dipped into the soup before delivering to mouth. I think of this as a deconstructed vermicelli bowl. We also add a couple of crab spring rolls to round out the meal. This is SO GOOD!
Where to eat: The restaurant Dac Kim – Bun Cha Nem Cua Be (website) is the absolute BEST, located at 67 Đường Thành. This meal you see here is for ONE PERSON. We can easily share it. Once, we each got our own and I was so full I could throw up. Total cost: 90,000 VND, or US $4.19.
Bonus: Egg coffee!
Egg coffee is a Hanoi specialty! A raw egg yolk is whipped furiously (seriously, we heard the beater on for like 5 minutes non-stop) with the famous drip coffee and sweetened condensed milk. This creates a concoction that is so thick and creamy, almost like a custard. And the most amazing thing: it tastes like creme brulee! Somehow, the egg takes away almost all the coffee flavor. So delicious! It’s like a dessert and caffeine fix in one. This is a MUST TRY when visiting Hanoi!
Where to get: Egg coffee is not available at every café! Don’t be one of those tourists who walk into every cafe asking if it serves egg coffee!We get this at a little café at the corner of Nguyễn Hữu Huân and Cau Go (the one without walls).
Hanoi has been my favorite Asian city so far to eat in. I think it’s also the best value, when taken into account the price, quality, and freshness of ingredients. I’m dreaming of when we can go back to Hanoi just to eat all of this food again.
I’m not done sharing about Vietnamese food yet! Stayed tuned for a look at what we ate in Saigon! It’s completely different!
What is your favorite Vietnamese dish? Which of these would you try and which would you skip? Let me know!
If you loved this article and want to eat what I ate, remember to download this article on GPSMyCity here. You can get a GPS-guided map that you can use offline. This means you spend less time plotting these locations and more time just enjoying the food!
Oh my, I think a little bit of dribble just fell out my mouth. So much good food! I think I’m going to go on the hunt for a Vietnamese restaurant in Brussels or somewhere now!
Ooh I hope you find one! And I hope it’s an authentic one. Pho is just sooooo good, especially since it’s still a little chilly where you are!
This post makes me so excited, Anna! I’m going to print this puppy out and take it with me while we’re in Hanoi. Your photos are drool-worthy.
I’m seriously sooo excited for you!! You’re going to love it! I really wanted to imbed a google map in here so people can see where they are, because the street names are kinda confusing. But they’re all within a few blocks of each other. I’ll let you know if I manage to find a way!
Oh gosssssh! I love your food posts so I was really glad to see this in my Bloglovin’ roll :) Everything looks oh so fresh and I love that lots of the food is presented on a huge leaf – makes it look even fresher. I think I’ve only had Vietnamese food once but I’m questioning how authentic it was as it didn’t look very much like this! haha. No wonder you’ve fallen in love with the food there.
That’s what I loved about the food there… everything’s so fresh! If you find some Vietnamese restaurants, try them! It took me a few tries to start liking it. But now I’m obsessed. I didn’t eat any of this stuff back at home (except for pho), so I think some of these dishes just don’t really make it out of the country!
The grilled pork and vermicelli photos literally made my mouth water!
I know!! It’s soooo good. My mouth waters everytime I think of it!!
I loved the sort of underdressed chicken pho!!! I’m seriously drooling… I NEED to go to Southeast Asia again. I’ve only really been to Thailand and that was ages ago!
Vietnam had the BEST food!! I do LOVE Thai food, but after going to Thailand and then Vietnam, I definitely like Vietnamese food more! It’s just sooo fresh and the quality seems to be a lot higher. I hope you get to go back to Southeast Asia!!
Ahhhh! This is what I’ve been waiting for. Thank you ever so much for the gallery of photos consisting of the beautiful pork and its array of accouterments. I’d like for every meal I’m served to come with a bowl of fresh chilies and garlic from here on out. This is a great guide to food in Hanoi – I’ve pinned it for my trip planning.
I hope the waiting paid off! I’m glad I’m not the only person who’s obsessed with garlic!! I would eat that with everything too if I could. Yay!! When do you think you’ll make it to Hanoi?
Now I’m STARVED!(And I don’t even eat meat!)
Same feeling I get when I visit my parents’ apartment – there’s a huge Vietnamese shopping center next door to them and the smells & sights there are UNREAL! Mmmm.
Yum!! Are there vegetarian options there? I’m trying to think if there are good vegetarian options in Hanoi. The only thing I can think of is to get the dishes without meat, but the soup broths are still meat broths!
There’s some amazing vegetarian pho but it’s definitely not traditional so you have to search for it.
Ahhh, your #1 would be my #1 too! I’m not much of a beef person so the choice is made easier! :D
I’m impressed that you love the egg coffee. Most people I’ve seen from the other side of the Pacific will feel disgusted with raw eggs, not knowing that the tiramisu is prepared in almost the same way!
People are ignorant, haha. I admit the *thought* of eating raw egg grosses me out a little (like when I see people just drinking raw eggs for breakfast… and yes I’ve seen that!), but as long as you no longer can even see it or feel the texture, then it’s all good. And of course, as long as it tastes good!
And I KNOW! I can’t believe we’ve been here for this long! Okay actually, I just counted on my fingers, and I think it’s coming up on the 6th month. But still!
One of each please! I really want to try that raw egg coffee – raw eggs are whipped and a bit of sugar is added for a treat for children here in Italy. I’m going to try this coffee the minute I find some fresh eggs! (mine have been in the fridge for one too many days now..)
I was thinking that it wouldn’t be that hard to make at home! As long as you have the sweetened condensed milk and a good mixer. Just make sure you whip it for a lonnnng time until it’s super thick! Let me know how it goes!!! I miss that drink!
What fabulous foodie photos Anna – good thing I read it just after having lunch here in London! I absolutely loved the food in Vietnam too and it came as a real surprise as I hadn’t tried much Vietnamese food before visiting there, despite having a real taste for South East Asian cuisines. Banh Cuon were one of my absolute favourites and grilled pork and vermicelli but reading this makes me realise how much more adventurous I should have been about trying more street food! Did you try Che? It’s a bit like a sweet dessert soup,served hot, that I tried in Hanoi, which came in different flavours and I went for sweet potato. You know by now I have a sweet tooth but seriously, it was so delicious!
Ooh yes we had a few of the desserts. We had a couple different hot bean soups… Iike red bean and green. I saw so many other wonderful ones that I wish we had tried, but truthfully I was a little scared too because the communication was hard and we couldn’t ask what they were. Next time for sure, I want to try more!
Omg, everything looks delicious here! I love Asian cuisine, I think Vietnam just went up on top of my bucket list! Yummmm!
Yes! If you’re ever in that area of the world, I would definitely recommend Vietnam… if only just for the food! To me, it was the best and at the best prices!
All of it looks amazing, but I think the egg coffee would be my first stop!
The egg coffee was so good! It was soooo strong though I could only have one like once a week!
Your photos are amazing, I can almost smell the food! I want to go back to Vietnam now!
Me too! The food in Vietnam is soooo yummy! And thank you so much. :)
I’m drooling just remembering all these delicious dishes from when I lived in Hanoi. My favourites are definitely a good pho ga, bun cha and bo bun which you didn’t mention.
That is so awesome that you lived in Hanoi! I always say that I wouldn’t mind living there for a while someday. It’s definitely one of my favorite cities, in atmosphere and in food!
Is that the same as bun bo hue? We didn’t find it in Hanoi, but had it in Saigon… so that’s coming up next!
I absolutely loved the food in Hanoi. My favorites were Pho ga, banh mi and fish spring rolls. The flavors and how well they work together is truly a surprise for a first timer in Vietnam.
Oooh we didn’t get fish spring rolls in Hanoi, but funnily, when we went to Halong Bay, we had it in the super fancy hotel we were staying at. Of course it was a really refined version, but it was sooo good! I knew the food in Vietnam would be good, but it totally blew me away!
Serious food porn!
No kidding! Vietnamese food is so good!
Thanks for stopping by, Britta! :)
YUM! Pho Ga is one of my favourite foods in the whole world and I am constantly craving it. Sydney has some awesome Vietnamese restaurants so I eat it whenever I can. I also love springs rolls and can’t wait to try Bun rieu
I’m constantly craving pho too! But back home, beef pho was more popular, so I was always eating that. I hope you’ll like bun rieu. The tomato soup is really interesting!
This all looks so goo! I love that you were brave enough to order the false dog before you knew exactly what it was – talk about a culinary leap of faith.
Yeah, we figured it said FALSE dog, lol! I gotta admit I was a little worried to bite into the meat and was relieved to see that it’s just pork!
Wow, great suggestions- I wish I’d read this before going to Vietnam. I was completely baffled most of the time!
We tried some stuff that I had no idea what it was (so I didn’t include). Sometimes, we just went to a random crowded street restaurant and got what everyone else was getting!
These look delicious! Of course your gorgeous photos help. I haven’t tried much Vietnamese food, just pho and banh mi, and what I have is mostly mixed in with other “Asian” food at very Americanized restaurants so it is nice to see the real thing.
The real thing in Vietnam was so much better than I expected! But you know what, even with all that new food I tried, pho will always be one of the best!
I am now in Croatia craving Vietnamese food! What do you think my chances are of finding any?
Of finding a good authentic one? Good luck ;)
Man I love Vietnamese food! I travelled Vietnam a few years ago and my favourite thing about it was all the yummy food, me and my boyfriend both want to go back for more!
Me too! I LOVED Vietnam for the food. I was completely blown away by how good it is. My bf and I always talk about going back to eat too!
Oh yum, you have my mouth watering. I loved the food in Vietnam! You can’t beat a good bun cha huh?!
Yesss that’s the BEST! Especially with all the fresh herbs and garlic in the fish sauce soup… yum!
I’ve only ever had Vietnamese food once (in my hometown- Durham, NC) and wasn’t super thrilled about it… but these dishes and sandwiches and bowls look AMAZING! Hopefully I’ll get to try some Vietnamese food again sometime soon!
I hope you find a better place to try it again too! The first couple of times I tried it back home, I wasn’t impressed either, but I think it could be because the place just wasn’t good. If you’re getting pho (noodle soup), be sure to dress it up with the herbs, chilis, and sauces!
I’ll take one of each thanks.. okay maybe 2 of #3 :D Thanks for joining #SundayTraveler.
Good choice! The sticky rice is delicious, especially with pate!
I just discovered your blog and I love it! Thank you for taking the time to write your experience. I’m a Vietnamese-Australian and thought I knew a lot about Vietnamese food but this list proved me so wrong. I’m really looking forward to trying all these dishes when I visit Hanoi for the first time next month :)
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That was so useful Anna, thanks a lot! I didn’t manage to try all of them but most of them. I loved the sticky rice, the steamed pork wraps (also tried the shrimp version), the crab noodle soup and the egg coffee (you know I’m not a coffee drinker but I had to try that!). I also had ban mi and spring rolls several times.
Now I went through the list again and realized I missed bun cha… I think I marked so many things in the map that I missed it at the end! I guess it means I’ll have to go back ;)
The first time I was in Hanoi I did a Food tour of the Old Quarter. You can do the walk at lunchtime or in the evening, and make sure that you are really, really hungry, otherwise you miss out on a lot of good food. It was a lot of fun, the food was tasty, and a treasure trove of information.
https://vietnamdestinations.xyz/exploring-hanoi-old-quarter-and-enjoy-the-street-coffee/