On one of our first few days in Istanbul, on one hot afternoon, we made our way through a very tightly packed street market. We bumped and shoved through narrow streets lined with endless vendor stalls. The ground was wet and dirty. I just wanted to make it out and have some space again. Being crammed into a large body of people feels suffocating.
At one point, D turned around and said “Can you smell that Turkish coffee?” It’s become such an instinct now that I didn’t even realize I was holding my nose (yeah it’s an odd defense mechanism against yucky market smells). I let it out and breathed in deeply. Like, really breathed in. Immediately, the intense aroma of freshly ground coffee beans rushed in. It smelled delicious.
As we continued our way through the market, I eagerly took in all the smells… the smells of sewage, cigarette smoke, and car fumes, but also the smells of spices that I can’t even identify, raw fish, and grilled meats. Everything was so individually distinct, and yet perfectly weaved together to create an intoxicating ambiance.
This is Istanbul – a city that needs to be experienced with ALL the senses.
(Even if this means an 8 year old insists on hugging you on the street and kissing your neck…)
After 2 months traveling through orderly Europe, Istanbul was a jarring (but welcoming) change. It’s chaotic, gritty, ramshackle, colorful, hip, lively – the perfect melting pot of east meets west. After all, what other city is divided by the ocean to sit on both European and Asian soils?!
Istanbul is a city of contrasts. But it just works. And that’s what makes it so exciting.
Whimsical organic cafes are nestled underneath crumbling abandoned stories. Dirty cheap street food is right next door to trendy bistros. Girls show off their individuality with tattoos and shaved hair, and there is plenty of skin on display. But on the other end of the spectrum, women in full-on burkas are also a common sight. Crowds of people and cars vie for right-of-way on narrow, hilly streets. Dozens of cats roam freely and coexist peacefully with the locals. There’s a lot of trash on the streets. People relax on sidewalks on tiny stools drinking tea and smoking shisha.
And five times a day, the call to prayer booms loud throughout the entire city. During those few minutes, time stands still and I am spellbound. Two instances stand out most in my mind: once while on site at the Blue Mosque, and once while at a super trendy sushi restaurant on the waterfront. Two completely contrasting venues – east & west, ancient & modern – hearing the same call… it feels worlds apart, but also makes perfect sense here. It feels magical.
Indeed, Istanbul is a magical city in the most unexpected ways.
Because pictures speak a thousand words, here are 18 pictures of quintessential Istanbul to tantalize your senses!
the view from our apartment window; this is the hip part of town :D
fresh fruit juice street stand
hitching a ride on the iconic Istiklal tramcar
catches of the day at the fish market
sleepy kitty on a stack of books
sunset over a mosque
apple tea in an alleyway
a storefront bursting with color
street-side stuffed mussles… delicious!
escape from the city at Prince’s Islands
crowd at the street market
heaps of spices at the Spice Market
cool blues of the Ottoman tiles
sticky sweetness of Turkish delights
ornate boats on the Golden Horn
intricate, colorful ceramics
breakfast: egg and sucuk (lamb sausage)
and lastly…. it’s so fluffy!!
Have you been to Istanbul? What were your favorite experiences?
This post is linked up with Relections En Route for Weekend Travel Inspiration. Don’t forget to check out all the other blogs!
So beautifully written Anna! Istanbul sounds amazing – such a contrast and with such interesting culture! I would love to visit one day – my husband was “lucky” enough to get stuck there during the volcanic ash cloud a few years ago when he got stuck there unexpectedly in transit from a Turkish airlines flight so I’m quite jealous he got an unexpected trip to Istanbul out of it!! :-D
Thanks Shikha! Istanbul is certainly a good place to get stuck! I hope your husband got to go out into the city center (I think the area by the airport isn’t so interesting). And I hope you get to go and spend more time there too! It’s such a special city with a really cool vibe.
Everywhere else, there are always people who dislike it. Istanbul is the only city that I’ve only heard wonderful things about, not a single person I know who has been there dislikes it.
Did you get on board that ornate boat? I wonder what’s inside.
I agree! I haven’t heard a single person say anything bad about Istanbul too! There’s just something so special and magical about it… the clash of completely different cultures, but it just works there.
Haha no I didn’t get on that boat (though I did have a few boat rides on very ordinary white boats). I think the ornate ones are just the very touristy ones. I wonder what it’s like inside too!
I love your writing style!!! And you describe those Turkish markets perfectly – I haven’t been to Istanbul, but I have been to Izmir and the Kemeralti Bazaar there. Very much the same experience, and once I adjusted to hustle and bustle I quite enjoyed it. And oh, that coffee… so good! :)
Thanks so much Amy!! I actually just went to Izmir (after Istanbul) and I LOVED it too. Unfortunately, by the time we got there, we were both too exhausted to do much so we didn’t go to the bazaar there, but I can imagine it being just as colorful and energetic!
Hi Anna, I was in Turkey 15 years ago and it was my earliest profound travel experience. It was indeed an assault to the senses. You certainly captured everything I loved about Istanbul. Your images reflect the spirit of the city. You make me miss it even more. I hope to return soon.
Wow! 15 years ago! But yeah, seriously Istanbul is so crazy and different that I’m sure 15 years from now I will still remember this trip clearly! I hope you get to return soon too! I’m already missing the energy of the city too.
What a very well written account of Istanbul. I love your photos too, shared one on my Pinterest board. Just what is it with the children hugging and kissing?
Thanks so much Lyn!
Haha… it was SO weird.. this kid and man (his dad, maybe?) were playing some dumb instruments and stopped me on the street and started to dance around me… and then when I tried to leave, the kid just grabbed on and started kissing. I didn’t know how to feel… like it’s sweet or gross??
I was in Istanbul in 2009 and I LOVED it. It is a crazy assault on the senses and I loved it. I loved the patterned tiles. So beautiful.
Those Ottoman tiles are amazing!! I heard that it’s because they’re not allowed to paint murals.. so that’s why the walls are all covered with tile!
Anna, You’ve captured Istanbul to a T! I think I know exactly where you were standing (behind the spice bazaar) when you smelled the coffee. The seller there is one of the most famous in the city, and usually has a line that extends into the market. I love, love, love Istanbul! Thanks a million for linking up with Weekend Travel Inspiration! I hope to see you here another weekend as well.
OMG!!! I’m SO impressed that you know exactly where that Turkish coffee place is!!! It IS in a little alleyway behind the spice bazaar… we just accidentally walked there one of our first few days and had NO idea that we were even at the spice bazaar. If only we had known that seller is famous, I’m sure D would have loved a cup of coffee!!
Loved this post on Istanbul! Your description ‘the perfect melting pot of east meets west.’ is exactly what I tell everyone on why I loved Istanbul so much! Brought back wonderful memories, such lovely images :-)
Yes exactly! It’s such a unique city in that sense. I miss it so much (which is unusual for me since I tend to not like large cities). Thanks so much for stopping by and commenting! :)